History of Modern Shaving
This is reprinted directly from Classic Shaving's website. They have lots more useful stuff there that really looks shaving, and how to do it well. Enjoy!
In order to have a better understanding of the various safety razors presently available, the manufacturer's claims of what their products will do for you, and how a safety razor might fit into your life, it is really necessary to begin at the beginning - with the first safety razors.
The earliest safety razors, which were actually invented in the 1880's, were for the most part, high quality well-made products, they were not intended to be used and disposed of like modern razors. Even the blades were intended to have a long and useful life. Blades at the time were actually made of forged steel and looked like a "section" of a straight razor blade. They were re-sharpened when they became dull and went back into the rotation with several others. Together with the razor handle they would serve the owner for a lifetime.
It was with just such a razor that King Camp Gillette was shaving in 1895 when his revolutionary idea came to mind.
Gillette had been working as a salesman for the Crown Cork & Seal Co. of Fond du Lac, Wisconsin. While employed there he learned his profession well. You see his employer was the inventor of the cheap, one-time-use crown style bottle cap that reigned as the standard for beer and soft drink bottlers worldwide until only recently when it was replaced with a screw-off cap. Gillette learned that the path to fortune was to invent a product that was not intended to be re-used, but instead used once and disposed of, assuring a steady stream of buyers and repeat sales.
Gillette's idea was that if he could develop a cheap and disposable razor blade that was viewed as an improvement over what was currently available, he could sell millions of them and the sales would keep on coming day after day - year after year.
The purpose of illustrating this concept is to point out that from the very beginning the disposable blade safety razor was not developed to be an honest improvement over what was available, only to "Look Like" an improvement. The safety razor had only been invented 10 years earlier and hadn't yet found its market. Gillette's real purpose was to seize market share by using clever (and often deceptive) marketing and thereby assuring a never-ending stream of sales for his products. What Gillette actually invented was the "Loss Leader" the concept of virtually giving away a product (the razor) in order to create a customer for the high profit replacement blades. Selling safety razors and blades (cartridges) has been all about profits ever since.
The original concept has never really changed right up to today. In the beginning it was the "Gillette Safety Razor" vs. all others. Since becoming the world leader in the industry, Gillette has been competing with itself as much as anyone, selling you on their "new" model over their old model by using the same tactics it once employed against its competitors. It is still only about profits.
What seems to have gotten lost in the razor wars is the shave. In today's sophisticated high-tech marketing the consumer is dazzled with important-sounding words and processes that are used to describe the "Shaving System" (nobody calls it a razor anymore) and how it was developed, how much money was spent in research, what it's made of, etc., etc. Little of substance is actually said about how or why it will improve your shaving experience.
The reality is that the razor is only one part of the actual process of shaving. The other parts are equally as important and deserving of just as much consideration as the razor or blade that you use. Beard preparation, soap or cream used to produce the lather, how the lather is applied, how the razor is weilded, and a score of other factors, all working in unison, are what determines the quality of the outcome. If you buy a safety razor - any safety razor, and depend on it alone, based on the maker's or seller's claims, to provide you with a good shave you will surely be disappointed.
It would be useful at this point to suggest that you also view with suspicion any manufacturer or supplier who is touting any "System" of products or practices that they claim will revolutionize your daily shaving experience - but only with the continued use of their system exclusively. Most such claims are unsubstantiated opinion at best and are intended only to promote the products made or sold by the claimant. Shaving is not rocket science, men have been doing it for centuries. Since long before Safety Razors, King Gillette, and the plethora of commercially available products presently being sold, men have experienced a wide range of shave quality outcomes. Then as now improvement generally follows learning how to shave, not spending more money.
All that being said, the modern safety razor does fill a need for many men. Today time and convenience are determining factors in how we structure our lives and schedule our time. The safety razor does offer convenience and makes the daily shaving ritual a faster and less complicated process. But like making any other choice it involves a series of trade-offs - cost for convenience; shave quality for simplicity; etc. By choosing the right razor for your needs your shaving experience will be enhanced and the resulting shave will be more satisfactory.
The Double-Edge Razor
Today the double-edge razor still represents the best value for most wet shavers. Its blades are inexpensive and widely available and provide two shaving edges thereby doubling the value. It will provide an exceptionally close and comfortable shave when used properly, and is 100% biodegradable. The razor handle itself is inexpensive, sturdy, and long lasting. The razor is available in a wide variety of styles to accommodate any special needs and there is a model to suit virtually everyone's style or budget.
This venerable model has changed little from the day it was first seen in 1903. Once the king of all safety razors, this was the model that most of our fathers and grandfathers learned to shave with and the model that Gillette's fortunes were founded on. Bearing in mind what King Gillette's original concept was based upon - his supplying the replacement blades, the double edge razor fell out of favor with Gillette when hundreds of other manufacturers both in the US and Worldwide began producing a wide variety of replacement blades that fit Gillette's razor. For no good reason other than to be able to control what blades went onto their razors, Gillette went in search of a replacement for the double-edge. Introducing -
The Two-Blade Razor
This second-generation safety razor and its subsequent "improved" models were made in several different versions by a variety of makers. The theory was that two blades would shave you twice as fast and twice as close with half the number of strokes needed. Its blade cartridge design offers quick and easy blade changes without the need to handle open blades. On the other hand, each different maker uses a different means to attach the blade cartridge to the handle making them non-interchangeable. The two closely placed blades routinely clog with lather and beard hairs rendering them ineffective. The cartridge itself is made from a non-biodegradable plastic and they can be costly both to make and use.
It was with this razor that the major razor makers, Gillette and Schick, declared war and began spending fortunes trying to out-do each other. For a while there was a new version of the twin-blade razor being introduced almost constantly by one company or the other. When finally it seemed that there was no more that could be done to improve (or re-market) the twin-blade it was time to introduce -
The Three-Blade Razor
The primary purpose of this Gillette Mach III "shaving system" was to one-up the two-blade competitor. This razor is in reality no different in performance than its two blade predecessor except for the third blade. Both the advantages and disadvantages are virtually the same, only multiplied by 50%. The cost-per-shave however is now reaching the point where blade cartridges are a major expense item. This fact may account for why it is currently the "most shoplifted item in the World."
Since the blade cartridge and handle of this "System" are very much integral, and producing a cartridge that would fit the handle would surely incur patent infringement litigation, the only way to compete effectively with a three-blade "Shaving System" is to develop -
The Four-Blade Razor
Now being introduced by Schick is the all-new revolutionary "Quattro Technologically Advanced Shaving System." Similar in many respects to Gillette's Mach III except this razor uses four blades in its cartridge.
In preparation for Schick's introduction of the "Quattro," Gillette has redesigned the "Mach III" and reintroduced it as the Mach III Turbo" again with little more than cosmetic changes and offering no real improvement in performance or value.
Again, in reality no particular advantages present themselves to the user but now the cartridge price and resulting cost-per-shave is nothing short of absurd.
After 100 years, multiple redesigns, hundreds of millions of dollars in development and marketing costs, and a thoroughly confused and frustrated consuming public the razor wars continue.
When shopping for a safety razor don't be misled or induced by the claims of whoever made it or is selling it. Use a bit of common sense. Ask yourself "what's in this purchase for me and what's in it for them." If you can't realistically see where the product itself will significantly benefit you, but buying it will serve the purposes of the maker or seller (either in the short term or long) maybe you should reconsider the purchase. Stick with what is proven to work well - A good double-edge razor with a quality blade, high quality soap or cream, a quality badger brush, and a bit of practice. You'll save money and enjoy the experience.
In order to have a better understanding of the various safety razors presently available, the manufacturer's claims of what their products will do for you, and how a safety razor might fit into your life, it is really necessary to begin at the beginning - with the first safety razors.
The earliest safety razors, which were actually invented in the 1880's, were for the most part, high quality well-made products, they were not intended to be used and disposed of like modern razors. Even the blades were intended to have a long and useful life. Blades at the time were actually made of forged steel and looked like a "section" of a straight razor blade. They were re-sharpened when they became dull and went back into the rotation with several others. Together with the razor handle they would serve the owner for a lifetime.
It was with just such a razor that King Camp Gillette was shaving in 1895 when his revolutionary idea came to mind.
Gillette had been working as a salesman for the Crown Cork & Seal Co. of Fond du Lac, Wisconsin. While employed there he learned his profession well. You see his employer was the inventor of the cheap, one-time-use crown style bottle cap that reigned as the standard for beer and soft drink bottlers worldwide until only recently when it was replaced with a screw-off cap. Gillette learned that the path to fortune was to invent a product that was not intended to be re-used, but instead used once and disposed of, assuring a steady stream of buyers and repeat sales.
Gillette's idea was that if he could develop a cheap and disposable razor blade that was viewed as an improvement over what was currently available, he could sell millions of them and the sales would keep on coming day after day - year after year.
The purpose of illustrating this concept is to point out that from the very beginning the disposable blade safety razor was not developed to be an honest improvement over what was available, only to "Look Like" an improvement. The safety razor had only been invented 10 years earlier and hadn't yet found its market. Gillette's real purpose was to seize market share by using clever (and often deceptive) marketing and thereby assuring a never-ending stream of sales for his products. What Gillette actually invented was the "Loss Leader" the concept of virtually giving away a product (the razor) in order to create a customer for the high profit replacement blades. Selling safety razors and blades (cartridges) has been all about profits ever since.
The original concept has never really changed right up to today. In the beginning it was the "Gillette Safety Razor" vs. all others. Since becoming the world leader in the industry, Gillette has been competing with itself as much as anyone, selling you on their "new" model over their old model by using the same tactics it once employed against its competitors. It is still only about profits.
What seems to have gotten lost in the razor wars is the shave. In today's sophisticated high-tech marketing the consumer is dazzled with important-sounding words and processes that are used to describe the "Shaving System" (nobody calls it a razor anymore) and how it was developed, how much money was spent in research, what it's made of, etc., etc. Little of substance is actually said about how or why it will improve your shaving experience.
The reality is that the razor is only one part of the actual process of shaving. The other parts are equally as important and deserving of just as much consideration as the razor or blade that you use. Beard preparation, soap or cream used to produce the lather, how the lather is applied, how the razor is weilded, and a score of other factors, all working in unison, are what determines the quality of the outcome. If you buy a safety razor - any safety razor, and depend on it alone, based on the maker's or seller's claims, to provide you with a good shave you will surely be disappointed.
It would be useful at this point to suggest that you also view with suspicion any manufacturer or supplier who is touting any "System" of products or practices that they claim will revolutionize your daily shaving experience - but only with the continued use of their system exclusively. Most such claims are unsubstantiated opinion at best and are intended only to promote the products made or sold by the claimant. Shaving is not rocket science, men have been doing it for centuries. Since long before Safety Razors, King Gillette, and the plethora of commercially available products presently being sold, men have experienced a wide range of shave quality outcomes. Then as now improvement generally follows learning how to shave, not spending more money.
All that being said, the modern safety razor does fill a need for many men. Today time and convenience are determining factors in how we structure our lives and schedule our time. The safety razor does offer convenience and makes the daily shaving ritual a faster and less complicated process. But like making any other choice it involves a series of trade-offs - cost for convenience; shave quality for simplicity; etc. By choosing the right razor for your needs your shaving experience will be enhanced and the resulting shave will be more satisfactory.
The Double-Edge Razor
Today the double-edge razor still represents the best value for most wet shavers. Its blades are inexpensive and widely available and provide two shaving edges thereby doubling the value. It will provide an exceptionally close and comfortable shave when used properly, and is 100% biodegradable. The razor handle itself is inexpensive, sturdy, and long lasting. The razor is available in a wide variety of styles to accommodate any special needs and there is a model to suit virtually everyone's style or budget.
This venerable model has changed little from the day it was first seen in 1903. Once the king of all safety razors, this was the model that most of our fathers and grandfathers learned to shave with and the model that Gillette's fortunes were founded on. Bearing in mind what King Gillette's original concept was based upon - his supplying the replacement blades, the double edge razor fell out of favor with Gillette when hundreds of other manufacturers both in the US and Worldwide began producing a wide variety of replacement blades that fit Gillette's razor. For no good reason other than to be able to control what blades went onto their razors, Gillette went in search of a replacement for the double-edge. Introducing -
The Two-Blade Razor
This second-generation safety razor and its subsequent "improved" models were made in several different versions by a variety of makers. The theory was that two blades would shave you twice as fast and twice as close with half the number of strokes needed. Its blade cartridge design offers quick and easy blade changes without the need to handle open blades. On the other hand, each different maker uses a different means to attach the blade cartridge to the handle making them non-interchangeable. The two closely placed blades routinely clog with lather and beard hairs rendering them ineffective. The cartridge itself is made from a non-biodegradable plastic and they can be costly both to make and use.
It was with this razor that the major razor makers, Gillette and Schick, declared war and began spending fortunes trying to out-do each other. For a while there was a new version of the twin-blade razor being introduced almost constantly by one company or the other. When finally it seemed that there was no more that could be done to improve (or re-market) the twin-blade it was time to introduce -
The Three-Blade Razor
The primary purpose of this Gillette Mach III "shaving system" was to one-up the two-blade competitor. This razor is in reality no different in performance than its two blade predecessor except for the third blade. Both the advantages and disadvantages are virtually the same, only multiplied by 50%. The cost-per-shave however is now reaching the point where blade cartridges are a major expense item. This fact may account for why it is currently the "most shoplifted item in the World."
Since the blade cartridge and handle of this "System" are very much integral, and producing a cartridge that would fit the handle would surely incur patent infringement litigation, the only way to compete effectively with a three-blade "Shaving System" is to develop -
The Four-Blade Razor
Now being introduced by Schick is the all-new revolutionary "Quattro Technologically Advanced Shaving System." Similar in many respects to Gillette's Mach III except this razor uses four blades in its cartridge.
In preparation for Schick's introduction of the "Quattro," Gillette has redesigned the "Mach III" and reintroduced it as the Mach III Turbo" again with little more than cosmetic changes and offering no real improvement in performance or value.
Again, in reality no particular advantages present themselves to the user but now the cartridge price and resulting cost-per-shave is nothing short of absurd.
After 100 years, multiple redesigns, hundreds of millions of dollars in development and marketing costs, and a thoroughly confused and frustrated consuming public the razor wars continue.
When shopping for a safety razor don't be misled or induced by the claims of whoever made it or is selling it. Use a bit of common sense. Ask yourself "what's in this purchase for me and what's in it for them." If you can't realistically see where the product itself will significantly benefit you, but buying it will serve the purposes of the maker or seller (either in the short term or long) maybe you should reconsider the purchase. Stick with what is proven to work well - A good double-edge razor with a quality blade, high quality soap or cream, a quality badger brush, and a bit of practice. You'll save money and enjoy the experience.
posted by Maddawg at 2/28/2006 08:44:00 AM
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